Cast on 192 stitches with US size 6 (4 mm) circular needles. Place marker and join to work in the round.
Work in [k2, p2] ribbing for 2 in / 5 cm, ending after a WS row. Knit one round in stockinette stitch.
Transition to US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles. Following the Stripes pattern below, knit straight until lower body measures approximately 15.5 in / 39 cm. You may choose to end your stripes earlier or later if the body ends midway through a stripe.
Knit 13 rounds in MC
When knitting thick stripes like these, it is best to cut your yarn when changing colors. Keeping the yarn attached will leave long floats inside your garment that can easily get caught on things during wear.
When cutting your yarn, leave a long tail so you have plenty to sew in. Sewing your ends as you go will save you a lot of trouble later on.
Knit 13 rounds in CC1
Knit 13 rounds in CC2
Next Round RS
Cut CC1 and CC2, knit in MC for 96 stitches. Place the remaining 96 stitches on waste yarn so that they are out of the way as you work the front side flat.
Working back and forth on the front, continue knitting straight until front piece measures 9 in / 23 cm from where you began working flat. Bind off with medium tension.
Place the back section stitches onto your working needle and continue in stockinette stitch (knit the RS, purl the WS) until back piece is approximately equal to the height of the top of the shoulders on the front section.
Bind off the back section in pattern with medium tension.
Align the front and back sections so the shoulders match on top and the sleeve edges are even. Seam together 28 stitches from the top left edge of the sweater front to create the left shoulder. Repeat this on the top right edge. You should now have two seamed shoulders with a total of 80 stitches in the center.
With US size 6 (4 mm) circular needles - or 2 sizes smaller than needle used for body – pick up the live stitches around the front and back neckline.
Working on the right side, knit 4 rounds.
Bind off in pattern with medium/loose tension. (Edge should curl when finished.)
With US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles or DPNs, pick up approximately 88 stitches around the arm, ensuring that you've picked them up equally around.
To do this easily, start at the center of the underarm and pick up half the stitches between the underarm and the top center shoulder seam. Then pick up the same number down the other side. If you'd like your sleeve to fit with a bit more room, you may pick up additional stitches as you work around.
When sleeve stitches are on the needle, place a marker at the center of the underarm and knit in the round for 1 in / 3 cm
K1, k2tog, k to 3 stitches before m, ssk, k1
Continue the sleeve in stockinette stitch (knitting every round), working a decrease row as established above approximately every 0.75 in / 2 cm until sleeve measures approximately 16 in / 41 cm and you have 46 stitches.
Transition to needle two sizes smaller and knit one round.
Begin ribbing as follows: [K2, p2] rep to end of round. Continue working ribbing as established until cuff measures 2 in / 5 cm.
Bind off in pattern with medium tension.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Weave in ends and wet block your sweater, pinning flat and turning once as needed until dry.
Wet block sweater, soaking for at least 20 minutes, then press out excess water and pin flat to dry. Turn as needed for even drying.
1073 meters / 1174 yards
Contrast Color 1:
169 meters / 185 yards
Contrast Color 2:
169 meters / 185 yards
Circular 7 US / 4.5 mm
Circular 6 US / 4 mm
Darning needle to weave in ends
Choose your pattern size. For more sizes (x(min)-x(max)) and customisation options download Bellish for free.
38 in / 96.5 cm
15.5 in / 39.5 cm
9 in / 23 cm
14 in / 35.5 cm
9 in / 23 cm
16 in / 40.5 cm
8 in / 20.5 cm
BOR: Beginning of round
CO: Cast on
K2TOG: Knit two together
KFB: Knit front and back
M1: Make one
PM: Place Marker
RS: Right side
SM: Slip marker
SSK: Slip marker
WS: Wrong side
MC: Main Color
CC1: Contrast Color 1
CC2: Contrast Color 2