Well, we can’t do much about the weather, but maybe we can help you to forget about the cloudy skies and gloomy days with some fun, trans-seasonal socks. With bright Uneven Stripes and a relaxed Roll-Over Edge, these are sure to put a Spring in your step!
For these socks we used the Knit Picks yarn Hawthorne Kettle Dye in Daphne as the main color, Compass as the contrasting color 1, and Poseidon as the contrasting color 2. You can get the same yarn HERE!
For this pattern you will need to use either a set of 5 DPNs or a circular needle with a 32 inch / 80 cm cable. The 80 cm cable is necessary to work the Magic Loop method for knitting in the round.
Some knitters may prefer to use a set of 4 DPNs or a very short circular needle for their socks. This pattern will still work with these options, but please keep in mind that some references to needles and dividing stitches may need to be adjusted or disregarded.
DPN users will begin with three needles (you will cast on to two of these).
Using either the Judy’s Magic Cast On or Turkish Cast on technique, cast on 24 stitches (12 on each needle) using US size 1 (2.5 mm) circular needles.
You can use the tail from your cast on to keep track of your rounds. If the tail is on the right, you are about to begin a new round. You can also put a locking stitch marker in this spot to use as a guide.
DPN users can add their additional needles as it feels comfortable while working the toe increases.
Knit one round.
k1, m1, knit to last stitch on needle, m1 k1. Rep for second needle. You have now increased 4 stitches, 2 on each needle.
Rep increase round once more.
Knit one round.
Continue knitting toe in stockinette stitch, working the increase round every second round, until you have 64 stitches total (32 on each circular needle, or 16 on each DPN).
You will now be knitting the foot section of your sock. This section will be knit as a straight tube until the gusset increases begin.
Half of your stitches will become the sole of the sock, and the other half will be the instep. Keeping the stitches divided over your needles will help you to keep track of this, but you can also place a locking stitch marker at the beginning and middle of the round if you would like.
Knit 26 rounds in MC
When knitting the thicker stripes, it is best to cut your yarn when changing colors. Keeping the yarn attached will leave long floats inside your garment that can easily get caught on things during wear.
When cutting your yarn, leave a long tail so you have plenty to sew in. Sewing your ends as you go will save you a lot of trouble later on.
Knit 7 rounds in CC1
Knit 20 rounds in CC2
When knitting thin stripes in the round, you may have a 'jog' in the pattern at the BOR. To prevent this, try slipping the first stitch in the round when changing colours.
Knit the sock foot in plain stockinette, changing colors according to the uneven stripes instructions, until it measures 7 inches from the cast on edge, or is 2.5 inches from the end of your foot.
A good thing about knitting socks like this, is you can (carefully) try them on the check the length! Make sure your stitches are all safely on cable of your circular needle, or put the point protectors on your DPNs to prevent stitches falling off. When the sock is level with your ankle bone it is time to move onto the next section.
Knit across instep stitches in pattern as set. Turn to the sole stitches. K1, m1, k to last stitch, m1, k1.
Knit across instep stitches in pattern as set, K across sole stitches.
Rep rounds 1 and 2 until there are 60 stitches in the sole.
Knit across instep, turn to sole stitches.
You will now be putting these stitches aside while you work the heel on the sole of your sock. If you are using a circular needle, the instep stitches will sit on the cable while you knit flat back and forth on the needles. For DPNs, make sure you secure the instep stitches with point protectors or a stitch holder so they don’t fall off the needles.
Short Row 1 (RS)
K to 15 st before end of row, m1, sl1wyif, turn your work.
Short Row 2 (WS)
SM, bring your yarn to the front, and while pulling tightly sl1wyif so that the yarn is wrapped around the first stitch.
You have now worked your first w&t. Your wrapped stitches will wait at the end of the row while you are working the middle stitches. This is what builds up the shape of the heel.
Purl across the row to 14 st before the end of the row, m1, Sl1wyib.
Short Row 3 (RS)
Pull your yarn firmly to the back and sl1wyib; this is a WS w&t. Knit to the last stitch before the increase stitch from the previous RS row, m1, w&t.
Short Row 4 (WS)
Purl to the last stitch before the increase stitch from the previous WS row, m1, w&t.
Repeat row 3 and 4 until there are 12 st between the increases.
After finishing the last WS w&t, knit to end of sole stitches. Picking up the wrapped stitches as you come to them as follows: When you look closely, you should see the wrapped stitch around the legs of the stitch sitting on the needle. From the back, scoop up the back of the wrap and pull it back onto the needle. K2tog-tbl, keeping the stitch tight.
Knit across instep. Knit across sole stitches to 20 stitches before the end of the row, picking up the remaining wraps as you go. Some knitters find that picking up wraps leaves unsightly holes in their knitting, especially wraps like these that were originally made on the WS. You can avoid this by adding a twisted stitch while picking up wraps:
K to one stitch before your first wrap, sl1 onto a cable needle and hold to the front. Pick up the wrap as normal, then sl the stitch off the cable needle and back onto your left needle to continue knitting.
SSK, place a stitch marker, then turn your work.
Heel Flap Row 1 (WS)
SL1, p to 19 st before the end of the row. P2tog, PM.
Heel Flap Row 2 (RS)
SL1, [k1, sl1] to last stitch before the marker. SSK the last stitch before the marker, with the first stitch after. SM one stitch to the left as you do this.
Repeat Heel Flap Rows 1 and 2 until there are 32 stitches left in the heel, slipping the markers to the left after each decrease (the markers should sit next to the decrease stitch). Finish after a RS row. Remove markers when you reach ends of row.
Knit across instep and heel stitches according to the previously established stripes pattern.
Continue in established pattern until the sock leg measures 7 inches from the top of the heel.
Rounds 1 & 2
P to end of round
Knit in plain stockinette for 10 rounds
Bind off very loosely in pattern. Sew in ends.
If your cast off is too tight, try going up a needle size for the cast off. You can also use "Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off" to create a more stretchy cuff edge.
Repeat pattern for second sock. Sew in ends, wash and block. Using a sock blocker will give you an extra neat finish, and is definitely worth it if you are gifting your socks. If you don’t have access to actual sock blockers, make your own by bending a wire coat hanger into the same shape.
194 meters / 212 yards
Contrast Color 1:
34 meters / 37 yards
Contrast Color 2:
101 meters / 110 yards
36 stitches and 52 rows in over 4 in / 10 cm with 1 US / 2.5 mm needles
Circular 1 US / 2.5 mm
Circular 0 US / 2 mm
Darning needle to weave in ends
Cable needle (optional)
This pattern is knit to fit an adult woman. If you would like to knit a different size, or to change anything else about the pattern, download Bellish for free to customize your own socks.
7.2 in / 18.5 cm
7 in / 18 cm
9.5 in / 24 cm
BOR: Beginning of round
CC1: Contrast Color 1
CC2: Contrast Color 2
DPNs: Double Pointed Needles
K2TOG: Knit two stitches together (decrease 1 stitch)
K2TOG-TBL: Knit two together through the back loop
M1: Make 1 (increase 1 stitch)
MC: Main Color
P2TOG: Purl two together
P2TOG-TBL: Purl two together through the back loop
PM: Place Marker
RS: Right side
SL1: Slip the next st purlwise to the right needle (without working it), with working yarn held to back
SL1WYIB: Slip the next st purlwise to the right needle (without working it), with working yarn held to back
SL1WYIF: Slip one with yarn in front
SM: Slip marker
SSK: Slip, slip knit together (decrease 1 stitch)
W&T: Wrap and Turn
WS: Wrong side
YO: Wrap yarn around the needle to create an extra stitch (it will leave an intentional hole)
Cuff Roll-Over Edge