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Inspiration knits
Calm Waters Raglan Tshirt

Calm Waters Raglan Tshirt

The sun is shining. There is a cool breeze, but the water is mostly still. Reflected light dances across your tshirt. Which tshirt? This tshirt. Scroll down for the free pattern, and get the yarn here!

The Calm Waters Raglan Tshirt drop shoulder hand knit t-shirt by Bellish
Ball of yarn with artistically laid strand

Knit in fingering weight cotton with plenty of drape, this Raglan is the perfect springtime knit. Light and airy, comfortable and flattering, this one is no-brainer.

For this sweater we used the Knit Picks yarn Comfy Fingering in Sea Foam. You can get the same yarn HERE!

Cast On & Shoulder Shaping

With US Size 3/3.25mm (24 in/60 cm) circular needle, cast on 94 stitches using cable cast-on method.

Row 1 (RS)
K2, pm, k12, pm, k66, pm, k12, place a unique marker here (you will need to know this spot is different later on), k2. Do not join yet.

Row 2 (WS)
Purl the row, slipping stitch markers as you go

On the following rows you will shape the neckline with increases on each end to create the shaping. You will join your work in the round when the neckline shaping is complete and continue in the round from there.

Row 3 (RS)
K1, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k1 (8 st increased)

Row 4 (WS)
Purl the row, slipping stitch markers as you go

Row 5 (RS)
K2, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k2 (8 st increased)

Row 6 (WS)
Purl the row, slipping stitch markers as you go

Row 7 (RS)
K3, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k3 (8 st increased)

Row 8 (WS)
Purl the row, slipping stitch markers as you go

Stitch Checkpoint

Front Edges (ea): 5 stitches

Sleeves (each): 18 stitches

Back: 72 stitches

Row 9 (RS)
K to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased)

Row 10 (RS)
Purl the row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 11 (RS)
CO 1 st using knitted cast on method, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO)

Row 12 (WS)
CO 1 st using knitted cast on method worked purlwise, purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 13 (RS)
CO 1 st using knitted cast on method, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 14 (WS)
CO 1 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 15 (RS)
CO 1 st using knitted cast on method, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 16 (WS)
CO 1 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 17 (RS)
CO 2 st using knitted cast on method, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 18 (WS)
CO 2 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 19 (RS)
CO 2 st using knitted cast on method, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 20 (WS)
CO 2 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 21 (RS)
CO 2 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 22 (WS)
CO 2 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 23 (RS)
CO 2 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 24 (WS)
CO 2 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 25 (RS)
CO 4 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 26 (WS)
CO 4 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 27 (RS)
CO 4 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 28 (WS)
CO 4 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 29 (RS)
CO 6 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO).

Row 30 (WS)
CO 6 st, then purl across row, slipping markers as you pass them

Row 31 (RS)
CO 12 st, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to end (8 st increased + CO

Join in the Round

Cut working yarn, leaving a tail. Rejoin working yarn at the unique marker you placed on row 1. The first stitch after the unique marker is the beginning of the front section and will be the new BOR from this point forward. Knit one round, joining the front into one piece in the process. You will work in the round from this point forward.

Stitch Checkpoint

Front: 96 stitches

Sleeves (each): 42 stitches

Back: 96 stitches

Next Round (RS)
Starting at the new BOR, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1 (8 st increased)

Next Round (RS)
Knit the round, slipping markers as you pass them

Next Round (RS)
K1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1 (8 st increased)

Next Round (RS)
Knit the round, slipping markers as you pass them

Next Rounds (RS)
Repeat the last two rounds until you have the following number of stitches:

Stitch Checkpoint

Front: 140

Sleeves (ea): 86

Back: 140

Next Round (RS)
K1, m1, k2, m1, k to 3 st before m, m1, k2, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k2, m1, k to 3 st before m, m1, k2, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1 (12 st increased)

Next Round (RS)
Knit the round, slipping markers as you pass them

Next Round (RS)
K1, m1, k2, m1, k to 3 st before m, m1, k2, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k2, m1, k to 3 st before m, m1, k2, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1, k to 1 st before m, m1, k1 (12 st increased)

Next Round (RS)
Knit the round, slipping markers as you pass them

Divide for Sleeves

Next Round (RS)
On the next round, knit across the front section to the first marker, remove marker and place 90 sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, removing the next marker as you reach it – you will return to work this sleeve later. Cast on 2 stitches using your preferred cast-on method (this will become the underarm), and continue knitting across the back section. When you reach the next marker, remove marker and place 90 sleeve stitches onto waste yarn, removing the next marker as you reach it – you will return to work this sleeve later. Cast on 2 stitches using your preferred cast-on method (this will become the other underarm).

You have now divided the sleeves from the body.

Stitch Checkpoint

Front: 148 stitches

Sleeves (each): 90 stitches

Back: 148 stitches

Body

Next Round (RS)
Continue knitting the body in stockinette stitch in the round until body measures 4 in/10.2 cm from underarm.

Begin lace pattern as follows:

Round 1 (RS)
[K1, yo, k3, yo] rep between brackets to end of round (do not count stitches this round)

Round 2 (RS)
Knit one round

Round 3 (RS)
K2, [sl1-k2tog-psso, k3] rep bet brackets to last st, k1

Round 4 (RS)
Knit one round

Next Rounds (RS)
Rep these 4 rounds until lower body measures 10 inches/25.4 cm from the underarm.

Transition to needle 2 sizes smaller than body and begin ribbing as follows:

Next Round (RS)
[K2, p2] rep between brackets to end of round.

Next Rounds (RS)
Repeat ribbing round until lower ribbing measures 2 in/5 cm and body measures 12 inches/30.40 cm from the underarm.

Next Round (RS)
Bind off in pattern with medium/loose tension.

Sleeves

Next Round (RS)
Working with one sleeve at a time, place sleeve stitches from waste yarn onto a small 12 in/30 cm circular needle (or DPNs or Magic Loop, if you prefer). Pick up the stitches cast-on under the arm (if applicable for your size) and place them on the needle.

Stitch Checkpoint

92

Next Rounds (RS)
Place a marker at the center of the underarm to denote the BOR. Working in the round, knit the sleeve in stockinette stitch (knitting every round) for 2 inches/5 cm.

Next Round (RS)
Work a decrease round as follows: K2, k2tog, k to 4 st before marker (at underarm), ssk, k2 (2 st dec)

Next Rounds (RS)
Continue knitting in the round for another 2 in/5 cm.

Next Round (RS)
Work a decrease round as follows:

Next Round (RS)
K2, k2tog, k to 4 st before m, ssk, k2 (2 st dec)

Stitch Checkpoint

88

Begin cuff ribbing as follows:

Next Round (RS)
[K2, p2] rep bet brackets to end of round.

Next Rounds (RS)
Continue in ribbing as established for 1.5 in/3.81 cm.

Next Round (RS)
Bind off in pattern with medium/loose tension.

Neckline

Next Round (RS)
With US Size 2/2.75mm (16 in/40 cm) circular needle – or 1 size smaller than needles used for body – pick up stitches around the neckline, ending with a multiple of 4 for neckline ribbing.

Work neckline ribbing as follows:

Next Round (RS)
[K2, p2] rep bet brackets to end of round.

Next Rounds (RS)
Continue working in ribbing as established until neckline measures 1 – 1 ½ in/2.5 – 3.81 cm.

Next Round (RS)
Bind off in pattern with medium tension.

Adjust your bind off tension, and/or the number of stitches you've picked up to create a tighter or looser neckline.

Finishing

Weave in ends and wet block your sweater, pinning flat and turning once as needed until dry.

Yarn

Fingering
weight |
4 ply

Main Color:

943 meters / 1032 yards

Gauge

27 stitches and 34 rows in over 4 in / 10 cm with 3 US / 3.25 mm needles.

Needles

Circular 3 US / 3.25 mm

Circular 2 US / 2.75 mm

Notions

Stitch markers, including 1 unique marker

Darning needle to weave ends

Size

This pattern is knit to fit an adult with 40 in/ 102 cm bust. If you would like to knit a different size, or to change anything else about the pattern, download Bellish for free to customize your own t-shirt.

Info
Looking for more sizes?
Base illustration showing measurements

Bust Circumference:

44.5 in / 111.0 cm

Body Length:

12 in / 30.0 cm

Sleeve Circumference:

13.5 in / 34.0 cm

Sleeve Length:

5.5 in / 14.0 cm

Positive Ease:

2-4 in / 5-10 cm

BOR: Beginning of round

CO: Cast on

DEC: Decrease/decreased/decreases

INC: Increase/increased/increases

K1-YO-K1: Knit one, then yarn over, then knit 1 again into the same stitch (2 st inc into one stitch)

K2TOG: Knit two stitches together (decrease 1 stitch)

K: Knit

KFB: Knit front and back

LC: Place one stitch on cable needle and hold to front. Knit the next stitch, then knit the stitch from cable needle (left leaning 2-stitch cable)

M1: Make 1 (increase 1 stitch)

M: Marker/s

P1-K1: Purl one, then knit one into the same stitch (increase 1 stitch)

P: Purl

PM: Place marker

RC: Place one stitch on cable needle and hold to back. Knit the next stitch, then knit the stitch from the cable needle (right leaning 1-stitch cable)

REP: repeat

RS: right side

SL1-K2TOG-PSSO: Slip one stitch, then knit 2 st together, then pass the slipped stitch over the k2tog (2 st decreased)

SL1WYIB: Slip one st (without working it) with yarn held to the back

SL3WYIB: Slip three sts (without working them) with yarn held to the back

SLIP 1: Slip 1 stitch (without knitting it) with yarn held to the back

SM: Slip marker

SSK: Slip, slip knit together (decrease 1 stitch)

ST: Stitch

STS: Stitches

WS: Wrong side

Sweater icon
Base
Raglan Sweater
Garment pattern section icon
sections

Body Cropped

Neck Scoop

Sleeves Short

Swatch icon
embellishment
Little Fountain Lace
Yarn ball icon
yarn
Fingering
weight
Measuring tape icon
size
40 in / 102 cm
The Calm Waters Raglan Tshirt by Bellish tshirt illustration